fun projects

Fuse

Follow the manufacturer's directions to fuse the iron-on stabilizer to the rectangle you've chosen to be the outside print of your clutch.

Pin.

Place rectangles right sides together and pin. Add the hair elastic to the center of the top of the rectangle, in between the layers and pin. This will become the closure loop.

Sew

Using a straight stitch and a 3/8" seam, begin sewing the rectangles together. Start about 2" from the center of the bottom (opposite side of where you placed the elastic) and continue sewing around leaving a space about 3" from where you started. Trim right angles diagonally.

Turn

Reach inside the space you've created and turn right side out and press. Topstitch around the rectangle with about a 1/4" seam.

Hand stitch

Stitch your closure button to the center top front. Prepare your applique and stitch it wherever you like- I applied mine on the opposite side of the button.

Finish

Fold the clutch in half and stitch up the sides using your previous topstitch as a guideline.

Save!

Now clip those coupons and tote them in style!

Coupon Clutch Tutorial

I always clip coupons with the best of intentions. Unfortunately, it seems they find their way into the strangest places and never in my hand at the checkout counter. I made this super simple little clutch to keep them in one place, plus help me look cute while I'm saving money!

What you'll need...

You'll use a sheet of notebook or printer paper as your pattern, cotton fabric in a couple of prints (pre-washed and pressed), medium weight iron-on stabilizer rotary cutter and mat or scissors, a button and a hair elastic for the closure

If you like the little flower applique, you can get the template here: View this photo. Plus you'll need embroidery floss and an anti-fray solution.

Cut

Using your printer paper as a guide, cut one rectangle from each of your 2 cotton prints. Cut one rectangle from the iron-on stabilizer.

What fun to have a hand-made halloween basket for trick or treating that you can keep all year long!

Materials Needed

• One placemat

• 17" of heavy duty webbing (I used 1 1/4" wide)

• Fabric, ribbon and trim to embellish

• Heat 'n Bond to embellish basket and finish ends of handles

• 5" of 7/8" grosgrain (or comparable ribbon, to finish ends of handles)

Embellish the front of your placemat on the right side of the placemat.

You'll be able to tell the right side as either the side with no care tag or the side that the ends are not hemmed toward. Since the bottom of your basket will be 6" deep, stay within the top 5 1/2" inches of the placemat. Otherwise, you won't be able to see all of your embellishment when you sew up the purse. Also, don't forget you'll be using a 1/2" seam allowance on the sides. Let your creativity go nuts on this part. If you have an embroidery machine, you can really create some fun patterns. Otherwise, sew on ribbons, buttons, trims, jewels or fabric appliques. The embellishments are easier to add before the baskets are assembled.

Fold placemat in half with right sides together.

After you fold the placemat, you should not see your embellishment.

Stitch 1/2" from edges on both sides.

Make sure you backstitch (hit reverse on your machine) at the top and the bottom.

This forms the bottom of the basket.

Take one side seam you just sewed and place it on top with the top of the basket toward you (the basket is shown upside down). Force the bag to flatten with the bottom of the seam forming the top of the triangle. Stitch across the triangle as shown, 2 3/4" from the point of the triangle, which will make a 6" stitch. Again, make sure you backstitch. It's too difficult to open up the seam allowance, so just turn the seam allowance to one side or the other. Do the same on the other seam.

Turn basket right side out.

If you want to add a ball fringe or other trim, you can sew it around the top at this point. Start at one of the side seams and the raw edges will be hidden under the handle.

Cut the ends of your cotton webbing cleanly and apply fray check to prevent raveling.

Heat 'n Bond and stitch a 7/8" or 1" wide ribbon to the handle if desired. Cut a piece of ribbon 1/2" longer than the width of your webbing (if you use 1 1/4" webbing, cut it 1 3/4" long). Press Heat 'n Bond to the ribbon.

Peel the paper backing off of the Heat 'n Bond and position the finished edge of the ribbon about 3/8" from the end of the webbing handle. Press the ribbon to the webbing, careful not to melt the ribbon to the ironing board. This will be the "right side" of the handle.

Turn the handle over and fold in the sides of the ribbon and press to the webbing and to the ribbon.

Again, be careful not to iron the exposed Heat 'n Bond.

Apply a tiny piece of Heat 'n Bond to the bottom half of the ribbon.

Remove the paper and fold the ribbon up onto the webbing and press.

Repeat steps 6 through 9 for other end of handle.

Be sure to keep the "right side" of the handle the same as for the other end.

Place handle on basket at side seam with right side out and stitch to basket across the top of the ribbon.

Stitch twice to ensure the handle stays secure. Repeat on other side of basket.

Halloween Baskets

Choosing and Cutting Your Fabric

I made several different size pouches by using different bowls from my kitchen as templates. For small bags, you can use Creative Grids Circle Templates, which are nice because they are clear and have a non-slip surface. You'll need two pieces of fabric for each bag, so be sure to use the same bowl for both pieces! We chose fabrics that had a lot of contrast for two reasons: to show off their intricate patterns and emphasize their rich colors.

To make the circles, place your fabric right side down on your table top. Place the bowl or circle template down on top of the fabric, and trace around it with chalk or a pencil. Once you've traced all of the circles you need of that fabric, cut them out with scissors.

Sewing Circles

With right sides together, sew a 1/4-inch seam around the circle, leaving a 2-inch gap between the beginning and end of your seam. Be sure to back stitch at the beginning and end. Snip the outer edge of the circle in five or six places. This helps the edge lay flat once the circle has been turned right side out.

Turning

Turn the circle right side out. Stitch up the small opening and press the circle flat.

Sort of Parallel Lines

Once you've the circle right side out, pressed it, and sewn up the opening, bring it back to the sewing machine. Sew a line 1/4-inch from the edge of the circle all the way around. Then sew a second line 1/4-inch to the left of the first line, 1/2-inch from the edge of the circle.

Using sharp scissors, cut a small slit between one line and the other, making sure to cut only the top fabric. Cut another slit directly across the circle from the first. These are the holes the cord will pass through.

Threading a Cord

I used Euroflax Linen for the cords because it is strong and durable. I made two cords for each bag. To make one cord, I cut lengths of linen 2 1/2 times as long as the circumference the circle. I twisted the strands together until they were spiralling around each other, then tied a knot at one end. At the other end I fastened a bodkin, a little tool made especially for threading things like this.

Beginning at one of the holes in the circle, push the bodkin into the tunnel and work all of the way around the circle. Pull the cord through so that the beginning and the end of the cord are even. Thread the second cord the same way, starting at the hole opposite the first.

Test it out

Close the bag by pulling the ends of each cord. One of the things I really like about these bags is that you can carry them around all closed up, but when you want to open them up, you can open them all the way and enjoy the fabric on the inside. They become a miniature tablecloth to place your smallest treasures on. Another thing I like is that they can be turned inside out and they'll still work. Enjoy! --Isabelle

Jewelry Bags

Supplies

1 Tie

1/3 yd. lining (100% cotton or other), pressed flat

1 1/3 yd. 3/8" cording for handle (1 ~ yd if you prefer a longer strap)

12 inches of stiff (braided) ~" elastic

fat quarter of 100% cotton for stabilizer, any color, pressed flat

1 magnetic sew on fastener or Velcro fastener or sturdy snap

Cutting instructions

Using rotary cutter and mat, cut unopened tie into seven sections.

For Flap, cut 6" piece from widest end of the tie. DO NOT remove the lining and interfacing from this section.

Cut each of the next 6 sections an equal length of 7 1/2". Note: Measure tie before you cut as some ties are not as long as others. If the tie is too short to cut six 7 1/2" pieces, cut the flap piece first and then cut the remaining tie length into 6 equal sections, not including tip.

Cut tie tip at 6”. Cut remaining tie into 7 ½” pieces (or six equal pieces).

Assembly

Step 1

For the flap piece, hand sew the loose edges on the underside to the lining. Cut 5/8" of lining only from open end of flap piece to reduce bulk.

For the other six sections, remove the thread and filling and then press flat.

Step 2

For the purse front & back, using the other 6 sections you've cut:

Lay the two large sections on the fat quarter of fabric, one above the other, right side up. To each side of the largest of these sections, pin the two smallest of the remaining 4 sections right sides together.

To each side of the smallest of the large sections, pin the two largest of the remaining 4 sections right sides together. (See Example A) PIN THROUGH ALL 3 LAYERS OF FABRIC. Sew in y." seams and press flat.

Step 3

Place pattern on sewn and pressed fabric and cut the front and back of the purse. Fold the lining fabric and use the pattern to cut two lining pieces. Add a pocket to lining back if desired.

Step 4

Sew purse sides and bottom, right sides together, with a 1/4" seam, leaving top open. Run a second row of stitching 1/8" in from this seam to reinforce the bag. Turn right side out.

Step 5

Sew the lining pieces, right sides together, in a ¼” seam, leaving a 3" Magic Hole opening in the bottom. Do not turn.

Step 6

Center the flap on the BACK purse section RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and baste in place. Cut the cording to a 48" length, making sure to tape at the 48" mark before cutting so cut end won't unravel. Attach the cording to outside side seams of purse having cord ends extend 1" above the fabric. Double stitch cord ends to purse.

Step 7

Place the tie bag inside the lining, pulling the cording out through the Magic Hole.

Step 8

Pin the top edges of the lining and bag together evenly and stitch all around. Turn bag right side out by pulling through the Magic Hole.

Press the top of the bag and then top stitch 1/8" from the edge all around, sewing back & forth over the cord 2-3 times to reinforce.

Step 9

For casing - Stitch a casing seam approx. 5/8" in width around the top of the purse, leaving a 2" opening where the flap is. Make an ink pen marking about 1 1/4" from each end of the 12" piece of elastic. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and insert elastic through the magic hole opening in the lining and feed through the casing. (As you near the end, reach in and secure the loose end of the elastic to the fabric with a pin so it doesn't slip into the casing.) When the elastic is threaded through the casing, overlap the two ends of the elastic so that one ink mark is on top of the other and stitch. Adjust the elastic so that fabric is evenly distributed around the purse. Stitch the casing opening closed.

Step 10

Turn in the open edges of the Magic Hole and stitch closed.

Step 11

Attach the heavier section of the magnetic fastener to the underside of the flap near the point. Center and attach the other part of the fastener to the purse front, centered and with the top of the fastener about 1" down from the top of the bag. OR attach Velcro fasteners using the press on or hand stitch kind. YOU ARE FINISHED!!!

Tie Purse

Designed by Marcia Mayes

Oct. 2004

Interlining,

fat quarter size

Pin and stitch through tie pieces and interlining

Open and press flat

Cut front and back using pattern

Tie Purse Pattern

Cut 2

Nurse Cover

Supplies

One-yard fabric (should be machine washable)

21 1/4” D-rings

1/2” yard 1/2” boning

Scrap of terry cloth

Cutting instructions

Cut your fashion fabric 37 1/2” by 27 1/2”

Cut a strip 4 1/2” by 34” and stitch right sides together with Ωî seam, and angle the seam at one end to a point tapering in about 8" from the end. From the un-angled end of that strip, cut a piece 9" long. Turn both straps right side out and press, centering seam in the middle of the strap.

Topstitch both straps. Put two 1 1/4” D-rings through shorter strap, and center them in the strap, wrong sides of strap together. Stitch across folded strap close to bottom of D-rings to secure rings.

Cut two triangular pieces, 10” x 10” x 13”. Cut two pieces 10” x 10” x 13” from terry cloth. Right sides together, stitch one piece of terry and one face fabric together on long diagonal edge with 1/2” seam. Turn and press. Topstitch long edge or embroider as desired.

Turn a 1” hem up all the way around the rectangle on all four sides, and press in place. Place triangular pockets in comers of bottom edge. On bottom and sides, turn hem raw edge to pressed fold and stitch bottom and two sides, catching the pocket edges in the hem, leaving top edge of cover unstitched. On top, turn raw edge of hem in only 1/4” rather than to meet the fold, so you have a 3/4” hem. This will form the casing for the boning. Do not stitch top hem at this time.

On pocket, stitch 4” from edge of hem through all layers to create a small pocket for holding nursing pads or tissues. Stitch from pocket edge-to-edge of cover, turn across bottom of pocket to create a square, and then back up the other side to the edge of the pocket.

On top edge, mark center, and then make a mark 8 1/8” on each side of center. With right side of cover down, wrong side up, slip long strap, seam side down, under mark on left side until raw edge of strap end is at the pressed fold. Slip shorter strap under mark on right side of cover. Stitch with narrow, tight zigzag at mark through strap from top of hem to bottom of hem. This forms the ends of the casing that will hold the boning in place.

Cut the boning at 161/2” long. Stitch the top hem at 3/4”, leaving opening to insert boning. Boning will bow or curve out slightly because it is longer than the casing. You want the curve to go away from the body. After boning is inserted, finish closing the hem.

Turn the straps up over the hem and edge-stitch the top of the hem, stitching across the straps.

Done!